An Exposé by Kyle ‘The Critic’ Graves
Well readers, today I endeavour to answer a question as old as time, one that has troubled me for many years, but today will finally be put to rest. And that question is, of course: “Is the ‘Six by Nico: Best of 2021’ menu ACTUALLY the best of 2021?”
For those of you who haven’t heard of the restaurant chain Six by Nico, it is a group of restaurants which only serve six course tasting menus, with the menu changing once every six weeks. This is a concept that could only appeal to two sorts of people, those who are trying to get into fine dining through a slightly more accessible route than most other fine dining restaurants, and dickheads. Mainly the latter. So, of course, I’ve checked this place out! I am an eight-time winner of the highly converted ‘Dickhead Award’ after all.
And if you hadn’t guessed it from the name, the ‘Best of 2021’ menu is, well, I mean, if you can’t get it from the name then I’m not going to waste my time explaining it to you. If you lack the ability to engage your brain for even a moment during this incredibly serious and not at all satirical article then on your own heads be it! Though you will get naught from this experience, which might actually make you better off than the people actually reading this article. So, you know, well done. You win. Now fuck off.
So, how were the best 6 courses of 2021 decided? Ah, well that can be answered easily enough. Every single person on the mailing list for Six by Nico (which I am one of) was sent a survey in which they had to pick their favourite dish from two options, and the winning dish would then be put onto the menu. Ah, a public vote, democracy at its finest, how could a public vote be wrong?
Answer: VERY EASILY!
How do I know this? Well, you see, this Motherfucker right here voted on every single course without a single morsel of the food I was voting on having passed my lips. I didn’t even deign to look at the pictures or names of the courses, I just clicked randomly, tanking any opportunity they had of having a truly representative vote on what people liked to eat! I felt as a God must have done lording his power over all merely because He could. And so He did.
And I will not be alone in having done this! How do I now? For, as I am sure some of you reading this are currently thinking, “Wow, why would Kyle even bother doing this? It’s pointless. What a Dickhead!” To which I respond… EXACTLY. I am being a Dickhead by doing this. But, as I have already established, this chain has a clientele that is mostly made up of Dickheads, some of whom will there do the same thing as me. Therefore, I can only assume the dishes that won were picked pretty much at random an have no relation on how good the food actually was. As it should be. That’s right! You were doomed from the moment of your conception Six by Nico! Ah, what tragedy your hubris has wrought.
However, I have one slight complaint with this method (as what I’ve mentioned previously are obviously positives, because I got to fuck shit up) and that is that they only offered two choices on each vote. Two! That hardly seems fair! They’ve already narrowed down exactly which ones they want to come up and submitted them accordingly? And was it a public nomination? You bet your fucking ass it wasn’t! That prick Nico rigged the whole competition in his favour, so that what he wanted to win would win! And the only blatant rigging I want is that which I have created with my own hands! I am the customer! I am RIGHT! And I will stand for nothing less than complete say over what I, and every other customer, must eat.
Enough preamble, onto the food!
On entering the restaurant I immediately asserted by dominance by being the coolest son of a bitch who ever lived, wearing my 90% opacity sunglasses, walking into a wall because I couldn’t ssee it, and then punching it for causing me to feel pain. Needless to say, everyone was impressed. I also came alone so no-one would ruin my vibe. Because let’s be real, that’s what my so-called friends usually do.
My experience was ruined the moment I realised that, as well as the 6 courses I was expecting, I could also opt in for an optional 7th course. I ask you! I had been lied to, wronged, robbed of my God given right to have exactly six courses and no more. SEVEN?! This place isn’t called ‘Six but sometimes Seven by Nico’! What next? To be served by a restaurant staff not made up of people called Nico! (I do not know what my servers’ names were, because I’m not a weirdo who wants to know. But, I assume they were all called Nico. Obviously.)
I can only hope that this optional ‘Snack’ course that started the meal would not ruin the essence of a progressive menu, moving subtly from one course to the next with a flow to rival that of the greatest escape room. Obviously, you would have to be a fool to order a 7th course in a place which is already offering you six. It’s too much, utterly needless, and I don’t see why anyone would do it.
Anyway, I ordered the optional seventh course because I’m an adult and I can do what I want. Nico should have known that most people are idiots who will pay more money to make their lives actively worse. He should never have allowed me that choice. If he had any spine he wouldn’t offer this optional course at all, but instead he writhes in a puddle on the floor like the soft-bodied mollusc he is.
The snacks that arrived as part of this course were two-fold. Firstly there was a Truffle Mac & Cheese Croquette with Cornichon & White Grape Ketchup. So, onto the obvious. You can’t make Ketchup with grapes. It’s made with TOMATOE YOU SWINES. White grapes, as the name suggests, aren’t even red! And ketchup is red! I mean, Ketchup is trash and I hate it, and the white grape sauce was actually really nice and added a good sourness to the dish which cut through the Mac and Cheese. This however excuses nothing. A Ketchup made out of grapes… what has become of this, our planet Earth?

I could take or leave the Cornichon (which is a twat-ish (French) way of saying a pickle); but, as will all other aspects of my meal, I have STRONG opinions about the croquette. The croquette suffered from the thing that nearly everything of its ilk suffers from. The moment something containing truffle enters a dish, it contaminates the whole plate, and everything tastes like truffle. In this case, you could get a little of the cheesy taste coming through the croquette, but it was mostly just truffle.
Now, I’ll be the first to admit I’m a slut for truffles, lather me in its oil and leave me to SOAK! But being delicious is no excuse for a poorly balanced plate of food. Because the dish genuinely would have been better if less truffle had been added. But, annoyingly, I cannot deny that I enjoyed it, because truffles taste good, even if it was probably too heavy for a first course. And if you disagree with me and don’t like truffles, you probably wouldn’t have ordered this optional course anyway, so who gives a flying fuck.
As for the other half of this ‘Snacks’ course. It was bread and butter. Wait, sorry, my bad, it was actually “Sourdough with Roasted Garlic and Chicken Fat Butter topped with Crispy Shallots”. How could I have made that mistake? They are so different after all…
The butter was over-aerated garbage. This seems to be a troubling trend in fine dining establishments at the moment that I just do not get, what’s wrong with the texture of butter? I’ve yet to have one of these whipped butters that is in anyway nicer than regular butter. The garlic added a good flavour at least.
The bread was nice but unspectacular. But it allowed me to do something I would have been denied the opportunity of otherwise though. That’s right baby! Wiping up the sauces of every course with my bread! Woooo! Makes me feel a RUSH! And the waiters give you less weird looks if you wipe up the sauce with bread than if you lick the plates clean, philistines.
But yeah, seriously, wiping up the sauces for courses one to five with the bread was genuinely one of my favourite bits of the meal, no joke.
Now comes the confusingly named 1st course, which of course was the second course to arrive, and my third plate of food. In fact, it arrived even before I had finished my truffle croquettes, but that is the only slight complaint I have in any of the timings of the food during the meal. This 1st course was called “French Onion”, and consisted of Slow Cooked French Onions, a Comté Foam, toasted Sourdough and Crispy Shallots. And let me just say, this course was delicious.

It was simplicity itself, only a few components on the plate, yet each worked in harmony with the others and was executed to perfection. Well, except the sourdough toast, which was kind of dry, but lets be real, that was only there for the CRONCH anyway, which it suitably provided. The onions were slow cooked so they were sweet with just the slightest bitterness from the caramelisation, and paired perfectly with the luxurious comté foam. And that was all this dish needed. It helps that, luckily, I’m also a big fan of French Onion soup anyway, and this deconstruction was good enough, and similar enough to the original, that I can see why it had been done.
People sometimes seem to think that more complicated food is intrinsically better than simple food. They are dumb and wrong and I hate them, and you should too. This course is proof of that. It was so nice that I don’t even have jokes to make about it. I mean, it was a deconstructed soup, which is, you know, fucking stupid. Like, who looks at a soup and goes “Damn, I should deconstruct this and give you 4 bowls of different liquids, that would be top banter”. And top banter it was my friend… top banter it was.
Following the 1st course came, you’d never guess it, the 2nd. Truly, a revolutionary dining experience. In a traditional progression you would expect this to be a fish course, and a fish course it was! More specifically it was a Scampi of Monkfish Cheek, a Dill Emulsion, Gribiche (a sauce a little like a tartar sauce), Peas, Beurre Blanc, and… something else on top of the fish. I’m not exactly sure what it was on the top, the waiter either didn’t say or he did and I just forgot, but seeing as I am infallible and know all things, I’ll assume the latter. And yes, I am aware of the irony of explaining what a gribiche is and not what a beurre blanc is, but that’s because I personally knew what a beurre blanc but not what a gribriche was. After all, I’m not infallible, you can’t expect me to know everything.

I personally (and really, my personal opinion is the only one that matters) found this course to be a lot less successful that the last. First of all, I am not the biggest fan of dill, so having the dill emulsion on the plate wasn’t hugely enjoyable. And the emulsion seemed overly sour too, it wasn’t unpleasant, but probably my least favourite component I ate during the evening. And the gribiche had too much mustard in it for my palette, but I also don’t like mustard, so this plate was never gonna be a winner in my book. The rest of the plate was well done however; the fish was well cooked if a little underseasoned, and the beurre blanc was very good indeed, adding a depth that the dish needed. Even the unidentifiable crispy stuff was, well, crispy.
But, a dish is not just a collection of individual components on a plate, it is how the plate works as a whole that matters. And that is really where this dish fell down. The balance was all… wrong. There was far too much of the dill and gribiche for the rest of the plate, and I genuinely don’t believe this is my bias talking, they both provided distinctly sour notes to the food, which worked fine individually, but when eaten together was a little overpowering. And, there was so much of them on the plate compared to the fish and beurre blanc. This dish could have worked on paper, with less of each of the dill emulsion and gribriche, or better yet, just get rid of one of them. By which I mean, of course, the course was hot garbage, and were I a braver man, I would have thrown it to the floor in disgust before demanding all in earshot to apologise me for offending my perfect palette.
It was at this point, seconds before I was about to begin a tirade that would have rivalled Moses’s on returning to the Israelites with the 10 Commandments, that I began to chat with the waiter. He seemed pleasant enough, friendly but not enthusiastically so, which I honestly prefer. And as much as I was trying to view this food with a critics eye, I enjoy chatting to the staff at a restaurant, especially when I go on my own. Because I like to think about how much better I am than they are, and picture the pained expressions of their loved ones faces as I crush them underfoot.
But, real talk, waiting staff get a lot of shit from people that they don’t deserve. 90% of the problems with restaurants aren’t on them, yet they will probably face the majority of the fallout, and really don’t deserve it. They also tend not to be treated the best by the higher ups, with tip stealing and slow payments being regular problems they face.
Unfortunately, I am bringing these issues up for a legitimate reason. A fact I was not aware of before I came to the restaurant was that the Six by Nico franchise is notorious for not treating their staff well, particularly in the ways I previously outlined. I had no idea of this at the time I went, and if I had known I wouldn’t have gone. But I would feel remiss to not mention this now, as it paints the whole meal in a different light (and also allows me to feel far less guilty as I shit on it). Just thought you should now. Waitstaff are people and should be treated as such.
Anyway, I lost all respect for the waiter when he said his favourite course was the scampi, and decided he was not worth my time or breath for the rest of the meal, though I attempted to hide my UTTER COMTEMPT behind a friendly rapport that I kept throughout the meal, and made sure he got the tip I left behind, because I’m not a monster. At least not outside of the bedroom. Ayooooo, am I RIGHT ladies!?!?!?!?!?!?
Back to the food, and the fourth course and fifth plate to arrive was, of course, the 3rd course. This was the most interesting sounding on paper (not the title, which was ‘Little Italy’ and told me nothing about the plate of food I was about to eat, and therefore pointless). The course was Hazelnut Ragu, Saffron Pappardelle Pasta with a Pecorino Foam, Crispy Sage and an Egg Yolk Jam. I had two immediate thoughts. One was, “What the fuck is a hazelnut ragu, that sounds terrible, I can’t wait to try it!”. The other was “What the fuck is an egg yolk jam? Like, you can’t make a jam out of egg yolks, it must be an emulsion or something. Why give it such a terrible name? I can’t wait to try it!” That isn’t even a joke, that’s what my thought process is like all the time. What a joy it is to be me.

The plate looked modest when it arrived, but I tucked in with an open mind anyway. And I was pleasantly surprised. The pasta was well made, but by no means the best made pasta I’ve had, and the saffron flavour didn’t really come through outside of the colour, which felt like a waste, but the ragu was the star! It was earthy and rich, and genuinely made for a dish that I would be excited to try making at home! It tasted good. But, as I’ve said before, tasting nice isn’t everything.
The cheese foam was very nice, and worked well and worked as the perfect seasoning to the food and the perfect texture to tie the courses together. But! I had already had a cheese foam this meal, only two courses before. And this foam (while still good) was a darn sight worse than the last. But, for a set six (seven, whatever!) course tasting menu, having two such similar components so close together is, well, unforgivable. From a fundamental planning stage, this should not have been allowed to happen, and really made me question whether the progression of the food had been considered at all.
I mean, it hadn’t been considered. People like me rigged the vote so that things like that wouldn’t happen. So WELP! But the fact that this even had to possibility of happening shows that the vote itself was ill thought out.
The other main problem I had with the dish was the egg yolk jam/emulsion/blob. It was, like the dill emulsion on the previous course, far too sour for my taste. And worse, it actively did not go with the rest of the food, and made the dish worse. It also, tragically, barely tasted of egg yolk. It was just sour. Egg yolks are fucking delicious! Why would you ruin it like this? This was genuinely the only component in the whole meal I didn’t finish.
But, even then, if the egg yolks had been, say, confited and put on the plate, the dish still didn’t need them. Both this and the last course felt overcomplicated. If the dishes had been served with one less element on the plate they would have been far better. I could only hope that this mistake would not be repeated in the next courses. (Spoiler, they were.)
In spite of this, I thoroughly enjoyed this course. Taking out the egg yolks made for a richly flavoured dish that wasn’t too heavy for a six course meal. Moving on!
Blah blah blah, joke about the courses not being the same number as the number of plates I’ve had, we get it, find a new joke Kyle! The 4th course was called Fish Supper 2.0, which as a name I back, because it is fucking DUMB. I know there was probably a 1.0, but still, you decided “Fish Supper” was such a good name you had to use it again, so just chucked a 2.0 at the end and had done with it. Not even a ‘2’, but a ‘2.0’, gotta get the version numbers in there just so you can see every single minute point that got changed between iterations. Truly a remarkable way to look at food. God, I love this kind of pretentious claptrap!

The course was Pan Seared Cod with a Caramelised Cauliflower Purée, Curry Sauce, Raisin Sauce, Samphire, Capers, Sage, Crispy Potatoes, and a Dill Oil. The cod was perfectly cooked and extremely flavourful, while retaining the perfect texture from the pan frying (which I STILL can’t get right, ugh). All the sauces were really good, with the cauliflower being my favourite, and while curry sauce has never been my go to with fish and chips, the curry here was light enough that it never overpowered the dish. The potatoes were crispy and added a nice texture and seasoning, but were uninteresting without the other elements with it. But that’s fine in a dish with as many components as this.
However, did this dish need three sauces and an oil? Let me ask you another question with the same answer, ‘”What is the opposite of yes?”. While it didn’t interrupt my enjoyment too much, while I was eating I was acutely aware that the problems of the meal were repeating over and over again. I’d had both dill and sage before, one in the course directly proceeding this. And the plate was overfilled, while everything tasted good, there was just too much going on, and not all of the components went well together. And even though this was, overall, my 3rd favourite course of the evening, I couldn’t help but have a slightly bitter taste in my mouth as they took my plate away.
This is slightly belated, but I will now bring up why the waiter said that Scampi was his favourite course. He said it was the only course of the meal that he liked all the components of. If 5/6 dishes have components that someone doesn’t like at least one of, then newsflash asshole! You have too many components on your plates. But this gave me little confidence for the next course, and yet I waited with bated breath anyway.
To build (or utterly ruin) the suspense, even though this isn’t when I went during the meal, I have to bring up the hideous bathrooms at this restaurant, for one simple reason. Look at this door. Look at this fucking door to the bathroom stall.

It’s full of fucking slits! Who wants to shit next to a door you can literally see through right next to you? Not me! That’s for sure! Terrible fucking door! God! Who does that? Geeeeeeze.
Anyway, so there I was, bated breath, waiting for the food to appear before me. I was in a moment of flux, endless possibilities presented themselves before me. What would the food be like? Good or bad? Perhaps it was a superposition of both, unable to truly extract themselves from one another, until the food would eventually arrive and the probability densities collapse, and I would be left with a plate of food in front of me, that could never have been anything else. All you could do was eat. And what was before me was none other than Smoked Flatiron Steak, Jerusalem Artichoke Purée, Lovage Emulsion, Brisket Croquette, Truffle sauce, a Red Win Jus, and Crispy Parsnips.

Food has an ability to make you feel things, whether it is good or bad. I believe the best way of expressing this is by quoting the notes I made about the dish at the time, because is genuinely how I felt when I was eating it.
“OK. THIS IS GETTING OLD. There is TOO MUCH GOING ON. We don’t NEED another Croquette, we don’t NEED truffle again, we don’t NEED more emulsions! This is all doubly annoying because so much of this plate is SOOO NICE! But there’s just SO MUCH on the plate. And I fucking CAN’T anymore!”
I won’t bother going into the particulars, if you’ve read the rest of this you know what I’m going to say. Some components were good, some were bad. There were too many things on the plate, as well as things I’d seen before. It was a good plate of food, but frankly, you’d lost me a long time ago…
The worst part is I KNEW this would happen. When you give people an entire say over what they want to come up in a tasting menu, voting independently of each other, you’re not going to get a cohesive meal. And I didn’t. Honestly, the repeated mistake of overfilling a plate is something I could overlook if the meal just ate better as a whole, but it didn’t. You gave me the ‘best’ dishes of the last year, presented them to me back to back, and didn’t for one moment consider how they worked as a progression.
Despite this, the progression was never going to be one I loved. If you have six or more courses in a meal, you bet your fucking ass that I want at least two to be Goddamn desserts. Hell, I’d settle for a dessert and a pre-dessert (which is like a starter, but for desserts, and they’re as good as they sound)! But noooooo, all the Six by Nico menus have only a single dessert, which just throws off the whole balance of the meal anyway. People like sweet food! And by people, I mean me! In addition to that, it puts unrealistic expectations on the one sweet course you’re going to have. Because if there’s only one, it better be a truly fantastic dessert.

And so there I was, having genuinely felt more than a mild annoyance during the meal which I had enjoyed, waiting for the dessert. And then it arrived. A lemon Mousseline with an Almond Sponge, Caramelized White Chocolate, Lemon Frogurt, and two types of Meringue.
And I started to eat, and my annoyance dissaperaed in a moment. It was great!
While it sounded like a lot on paper, on the plate it was probably the second simplest dish of the menu, and was also my second favourite overall. Wow, what a weird correlation, who could have seen that coming. Every component was well executed, working well together, and by depending on the components you had, giving a different flavour profile to the dish, keeping it well balanced.
But why did this work so well? I think it’s because the Lemon Mousseline and Frogurt were clearly the central components, and the others were accents which improved them, but did not overpower them. It also wasn’t too, which can ruin a dessert. And lemon is fresh enough that it’s almost always a good note to end a meal on. Unless, you know, a bunch of the previous dishes had heavily featured lemon, but why would anyone put the same components on every plate of food? That would be STUPID!
But yeah, nice to end the meal on a good note.
Anyway, that’s kind of the end of my experience. As was probably evident I had (too) many opinions about this meal. So, should you check out Six by Nico? I would say no, but that’s mainly because of the apparent treatment of the staff as opposed to the quality of the food, because the food, despite all my complaints, was good. Just not great. And I wouldn’t recommend the ‘Best of 2021’ menu, which will literally end tomorrow as I publish this, never to be repeated, so why does it fucking matter.
But what Six by Nico really excels at is being a gateway to tasting menus and fine dining in general. It’s a very accessible way to try a different dining experience, and if you want something like that, ignoring the guilt, this is probably your best bet. It’s affordable, and it’s good. And while this menu was a fan vote, thus disregarding any sense of progression a meal might have, I’m sure it will never happen again. (That was a joke, the coming menu was also a fan vote, meaning the same problems will happen again, which is just UGH. Also, there’s a dish based on Danny Champion of the World, and it features Trout. TROUT? Like come on, talk about missing a stationary fucking target, I ask you…) Anyway, thanks for reading this, and check out Six by Nico if you want. Or don’t. I genuinely do not care.
Oh yeah. Is the ‘Six by Nico: Best of 2021’ menu ACTUALLY the best of 2021? No. Obviously not. Did you read any of my previous 5000 words? Fucking idiots, I hate the lot of you.

















